There are three basic types of menswear, explained Jeff Hilliard of The Armoury, the Hong Kong–based men’s shop that recently soft-opened in the old Working Class Emporium space (the grand opening is scheduled for March). Ready to wear is when you buy something off the rack. Made to measure is when an existing pattern is altered to fit you better. And bespoke is totally new and custom. All three are available at the store, which is handsome in a masculine way—walnut shelves, exposed brick—without the hyperstyling of, say, J. Crew’s Tribeca shops.
The Armoury was started by three men who craved “clothing with substance”—timeless but not fusty, and made to last. Indeed, many of the brands on offer have been around for a century, or longer. You’ll find Glenroyal briefcases; Rimowa luggage; leather goods by Ettinger, K.T. Lewiston Bros., and TMBH; ties by Drake’s; Sozzi Calze ties and socks; Ascot Chang shirts; and Saint Crispin’s handmade shoes. And the Armoury has a few of its own products, including Japanese-denim jeans made in Hong Kong and the Armoury model suit and jacket, a collaboration with Ring Jacket of Osaka.
Some of the ready-to-wear is also customizable, such as the leather goods and the Saint Crispin’s shoes. The store will regularly fly in vendors to do fittings and advise on styles and materials. (In the case of the shoes, the store can handle the fittings.)
Hilliard said that the original Armoury, in Hong Kong’s Central District, was supposed to have a mezzanine, so the Duane Street space’s upper level was one more compelling reason to open there. It’s home to the “made to measure suite,” where you can get fitted for suits, pants, and eventually Ascot Chang shirts. Salvatore Ambrosi will come from Naples to do fittings for pants; Orazio Luciano will handle made-to-measure suits (store associates can also do it); and Antonio Liverano, has been making suits for 65 years, will come from Florence to for fittings for bespoke suits. Just because they’ve been doing it for a while doesn’t mean they’re not still innovating—Ambrosi can make pant cuffs that discreetly button, so you can unfold them to clean inside. The best way to hear about these opportunities is to sign up for the Armoury’s email list (scroll to the bottom of the brand’s website).
Downstairs has offices and storage, and also a VIP suite, for those of you who prefer total privacy.
The Armoury is at 168 Duane (between Hudson and Greenwich), 646-613-7613; thearmoury.com.
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