Atera
77 Worth St.
(bet. Church and Broadway)
212-226-1444
ateranyc.com
American (New)
Fancy

Chef Ronny Emborg has taken over the reins from Matthew Lightner, but the experience is not so different: Most diners sit at a deep U-shaped bar facing an open kitchen; the food is complex; and dinner can last three hours. The word has been good, but the major media outlets have yet to weigh in. Note: The “fancy” rating is for price and more than anything; the experience is formal in a worship-the-food way, not in a jacket-required way.

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