David Bouley’s long-gestating partnership with the Tsuji cooking school in Osaka serves kaiseki (a ritualized Japanese dinner) in a contemporary, pretty room. To the right as you enter is a 12-seat sushi bar. To the left is the dining room, with a larger L-shaped counter fronting the open kitchen and tables along the windows, which are half-papered throughout. The 20,000 paperback books lining a wall in the sushi bar pack visual punch, as do the three tiny dioramas of Japanese market scenes set into them. The food is exquisite; tasting menu only. A private dining room can seat 12.