El Luchador, which Tony Fok and Stephan Lemagnen opened in the fall of 2014, is about as Southern California as Manhattan gets. The tiny white building at the corner of South and John streets is the kitchen; most of the seating is outside or in the vintage Airstream Safari parked off to the side. There’s some style inside—”luchador” means “wrestler” in Spanish, so you’ll see a bit of theming along those lines—but the intentional raffishness is definitely part of the charm. Sit back and roll with it: You’ll feel like you’re on vacation in a scruffier, more interesting city. The menu is mainly Mexican classics, and the fish tacos area standout.