Located within the new-build Greenwich Hotel, Locanda Verde has a timeless trattoria style that makes it look like it’s been around for years. The impression is heightened by the crowds: The restaurant is a destination for folks from all over the city, packed at lunch, brunch, and dinner. (For dinner, reserve way out if you don’t know anyone who works there.) But don’t be fooled by the dishtowel napkins and casual buzz: Chef Andrew Carmellini cooks Italian food that’s simultaneously full-bodied and sophisticated. While prices aren’t high, the portions aren’t large—all the better to savor one of pastry chef Karen DeMasco’s desserts. It’s a great spot for breakfast, thanks to the hotel affiliation. Two notes: The restaurant has an elegant private room that can seat 60, and during off hours you can order coffee drinks and DeMasco’s baked goods at the “café” (a counter in the front of the space).

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