Unabashedly glamorous—yes, that’s a Champagne cart being rolled around the dining room by a tuxedoed waiter—Mr. Chow’s downtown outpost is divine to some and absurd to others. The room calls to mind a high-end coke den circa 1987, with shiny surfaces everywhere, the better to cut lines and/or admire yourself. (Mr. Chow may be the only place in town to play Wham! unironically.) The food is Chinese but the staff is not. The seating out on the loading dock is fabulous by any measure.