While there is seating inside, it’s overlit and a tad grim; most Tribecans haul the food back to their homes or offices. The restaurant has been famous for years as a favorite of taxi drivers, although at this point you’re more likely to be in line with locals. There’s a big steam table laden with different Pakistani dishes, and you order by telling the staff (or more often, pointing) what you want. No matter what you choose, order a superb nan, baked to order in a Tandoor oven.

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