When New York Vintners invited me to come to one of its many classes, I’m afraid I didn’t venture too far from my core interests. “Premium Sake and Asian Tapas,” “Wines of the Southern Hemisphere,” “Building Your Own Palate”—the options are wide-ranging. “Pizza and the Wines That Love It,” however, had my name written all over it.

Last Sunday’s two-hour class started at 4 p.m., and I was excited just to see the back half of the space, where the kitchen is. (The “office” in the middle of the room is on a track, and it can be moved forward or backward depending how many people New York Vintners is hosting. They can seat up to 50 at regular tables or accommodate cocktail parties as large as 90.) Most of the 20 other students were already seated when I arrived, and most appeared to be in their thirties and forties. The class was during the Jets game, which may be why only three other men were there.

In-house chef Christopher Meeker—who has worked in Europe, Houston, Westchester, and Santa Barbara, including a stint as private chef—soon got started. First, he let us know that we wouldn’t be making dough, because: a) It takes two hours to rise, and b) you can buy good dough cheaply at pretty much any pizza joint and Whole Foods, where today’s was coming from.

Meeker has personality to spare, which helped the large amount of pizza-making tips and advice go down very easily. When I looked back at my notes later, I was surprised at how much I learned….

Equipment
• Baking your pizza on a pizza stone is great because the stone, which is porous, and wicks away moisture. Moisture is no friend of pizza. (See “Toppings,” below.)
• Those pie pans/baking sheets with holes will also do well enough.
• The big paddle that pizzerias use—one often comes with the stone—is called a peel.

Dough
• You want to work with dough when it’s cold.
• If you have a ball of dough that makes two pizzas, always bisect it horizontally; cut it vertically and you’ll never get the dough round again.
• If you don’t want to stretch the dough by tossing it, use the 12-6-12 method: While the dough is lying on a flat surface, hold the top steady with one hand while the other hand presses the dough out in half-circle motions (from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock, and then from 6 o’clock to 12 o’clock).
• To fix a tear, overlap a bit of dough over the tear and gently work it in.
• Pinch the circumference to make it nice and thin. The tastier your crusts, the less likely you are to end up with plates full of “pizza bones.”
• Whole-wheat dough oxidizes quickly, turning gray at the edges, so use it immediately if you must use it at all. (“If it wasn’t for the fact that you people like healthy food I wouldn’t make whole-wheat pizza!” said Meeker. “I support eating for nutrition—as long as it doesn’t inhibit eating for pleasure.”) Also, whole-wheat dough takes longer to bake: 8–12 minutes versus 7 minutes for normal dough, if I remember correctly. We were drinking wine….

Sauce and toppings
• To make pizza sauce, add a tablespoon of honey to your favorite pasta sauce. (Pizza sauce is traditionally sweeter than pasta sauce in order to balance the saltiness of toppings.) Use a wand blender to smoothen it. My neighbor, however, said that she adds honey to the dough, not the sauce. She was from Staten Island and vehement about this point.
• Apply just enough tomato sauce to coat.
• The more toppings, the soggier the pizza. Plus, toppings add pressure on the dough, keeping it from cooking properly. (The center doesn’t cook enough.) Try to max out at three toppings.
• That’s why pizzerias use a special low-moisture mozzarella—and if they’re using fresh mozzarella, it’s designed specially for pizza. If you’re using fresh mozzarella, let it drain after you slice it.
• Smoked mozzarella, however, tends to be a little drier from the start because it’s been smoked. Meeker bought his smoked mozzarella from Sid Wainer; I’m not a big fan of smoked mozzarella but it tasted great.
• Precook any vegetable toppings—quickly sauté them, then drain. It’ll remove moisture and your veggies will get color while baking.

Baking
• Cornmeal is a handy way to slide the pizza from the peel to the stone. It releases methane while baking, however, which bothers some people’s eyes.
• Halfway through baking, rotate the pizza 180 degrees. Every oven has a hotspot. (This is a good rule no matter what you’re baking.)
• Resist the temptation to open the door unnecessarily. In two seconds you can lose 100 degrees.

That sounds like a barrage of information, but it didn’t feel that way, perhaps because we were also eating pizza fresh from the oven. (How was the pizza? I’m a pizza snob, willing to cross rivers for a good pie, and I don’t think it’s fair to compare homemade pizza to pizzeria pizza—but I’d gladly have this pizza at home any day of the week. Well, not the whole-wheat one.)

Meeker tag-teamed with New York Vintners wine consultant Gerard Quirk. Quirk didn’t tell us what to taste in each wine, instead teaching us how to taste wine in general, so that we could come to our own conclusions:

1. First, look at it. Tilt the glass 45 degrees, and be sure to look at the wine against a white background, such as the tablecloth. The key word is vibrancy: “And even if it’s a hippy, biodynamic type of wine it shouldn’t be dull,” said Quirk. And you don’t ever want murky wine.

2. Stick your nose in the glass. Smell the wine. Is it aromatic? What does the smell remind you of? “Citrus, perhaps?” asked Quirk, trying not to lead the witnesses too much. (We were still on Prosecco, so he reminded us that you don’t swirl sparkling wine because the bubbles will dissipate.)

3. Take a taste. Wine tasters have no problem slurping, because air brings out the flavor. Quirk said some tasters almost chew the wine, for as long as a few minutes. Again, rather than insisting we taste what he tasted, he suggested questions we should ask no matter what wine we were drinking: Does it taste the way it smells? How long does the taste last? Does it have a certain complexity? A major goal is balance: If any one factor jumps out at you—if the alcohol is overpowering—there might be a problem.

Quirk also talked about terroir and appellations, and then there was a diversion into sparkling wines—Prosecco vs. Champagne and cava—that I kind of tuned out, to be honest, having covered much of that ground last month.

We tasted six wines…
1. Botter NV Verduzzo Prosecco from the Veneto
2. Sartarelli 2008 Verdicchio Classico, from Le Marche
3. Roccaperciata 2008 Grillo from Sicily
4. Pico Maccario 2008 Barbera d’Asti from Piedmont
5. Valdarno Superiore 2007 Chianti from Tuscany
6. Terredora 2008 Aglianico from Campania
…and we didn’t learn their prices until the end. I was pleasantly surprised that they ranged from only $10 to $15 per bottle. And I liked the Aglianico so much, I bought a bottle of it to take home. I always was the kind of student who went for extra credit.

New York Vintners’ full schedule is here. The next “Pizza and the Wines That Love It” class is on Saturday, Feb. 6; it costs $45, though several folks at my class paid less because they signed up via Groupon. 21 Warren St. (bet. Broadway and Church); 212-812-3999, newyorkvintners.com.

GO FROCK YOURSELF This Friday, Nov. 27, fashion designer Gary Graham (in what used to be Moulin Bleu) is having a “Black Friday” sale with 20 percent off tout la boutique. 176 Franklin, 11 a.m.–8 p.m.

NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH Community Board 1 meets tonight from 6 p.m. to forever. Dance New Amsterdam, 280 Broadway (enter on Chambers bet. Broadway and Elk).

OMG OMG OMG Twilight stars Robert Pattinson and Kristen Stewart (who was really good in Adventureland, by the way) were seen dining at Megu. No word on whether he ordered his Kobe beef skewers blood-rare.

BEATS WATCHING “THE BONNIE HUNT SHOW” The Museum of Jewish Heritage is looking for volunteers for its gift shop. In exchange for one four-hour shift per week, you get a 25 percent discount in the shop, a museum ID that grants you free admission to other museums, and good karma. For more information, contact Tammy Chiu (tchiu@mjhnyc.org, 646-437-4367).

GOT EARPLUGS? Tuesday, Dec. 1, is World’s AIDS Day, so once again Housing Works has organized a 24-hour reading in City Hall Park of names of people who have died of the disease. As someone who (a) believes that such an important event should reach the maximum number of other people, (b) lives near City Hall Park, and (c) owns a dog that freaks out whenever someone talks into a mic, I hope one day the vigil will consider gracing somewhere new. That sounds terrible, I’m sure, but there has to be a better way to raise awareness than droning on for 24 hours.

OCEAN’S 12: GREATEST MOVIE EVER? 92YTribeca has added the following events to its schedule: “multi-instrumentalist singer-songwriter” Gail Ann Dorsey (Dec. 4); Newdraft Screenplay Reading, a staged reading of a new romantic comedy, Hannah Henri (Dec. 11); Dream Role!, “a monthly showcase that allows people from every walk of life to perform” (Dec. 16); and Kevin Geeks Out: Holiday Grab Bag!, an evening filled with surprise video entertainment, including using the Socratic method to determine whether the greatest movie ever made is, yes, Ocean’s 12 (Dec. 18). That was the Amsterdam one.

RATS! I’m just back from Whole Foods, where the Thanksgiving frenzy has begun, and I just have to say, aren’t those giant inflatable rats fantastic? They’re supposed to shame some company, but instead they always make me smile. I mean, what on earth must visitors from London or Paris think? I had to resist asking one of the protestors to take my photo standing in front of this one.

LOST WEEKEND On Saturday, Dec. 5, Trattoria Cinque is hosting a five-course early-bird dinner (4–7 p.m.) to showcase Italian sparkling wines. The cost is $55. RSVP by Dec. 1 to info@trattoriacinquenyc.com. The next afternoon, City Winery will pair New York foods with New York wines (Uncorked New York!, $45). Monday, you’re on your own.

ARE YOU IN OR OUT? Tribeca Retail Club, which throws occasional shopping fairs at Chacala event space, is accepting applications from fashion designers for its Holiday 2009 sale on Dec. 21–22. Applications are due by Dec. 4. I’ll post more about attending the sale closer to the date….

PASS IT ON If you enjoy this newsletter, please forward it to anyone in greater Tribeca who might enjoy it, too. And while you’re at it, mention it to local merchants—though perhaps not Housing Works, at least this edition.

Thanksgiving selections from Vestry Wines

In the words of Christy Frank, owner of Frankly Wines, Thanksgiving dinner is “a wine-pairing nightmare.” So why not hand over the decision to someone who has given the matter serious thought? Wine may not be as traditional as turkey or pumpkin pie, but it’s arguably far more important to the overall success of the meal….

CHAMBERS STREET WINES
Expert John Rankin, sales
Red Quivira Zinfandel, 2006; Dry Creek Valley, Calif. ($19). “For America’s unique holiday, I reach for America’s unique grape: Zinfandel. The rich berry flavors and juicy structure pair perfectly with turkey and all of the trimmings. Quivira meticulously adheres to biodynamic wine making principles including fermentation from natural yeasts in the vineyard.”
White Terres Dorees Beaujolais Blanc, 2008; Charnay, France ($15). “From Chardonnay grown on limestone vineyards in the southern Beaujolais, this lovely wine is a terrific value. No new oak and natural vinification gives a balanced Chardonnay with crisp apple fruit to refresh your guests’ palate after your Thanksgiving feast.”
Delivery Free below Canal St.
148 Chambers St. (W. Broadway/Greenwich), 212-227-1434, chambersstwines.com.

Frankly Wines' recommendations

FRANKLY WINES
Expert Christy Frank
Red Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Rosado, 1998; Rioja, Spain ($25). “Imagine Thanksgiving dinner (the food, not your crazy cousins): cranberry sauce, turkey, yams, stuffing. It’s a wine-pairing nightmare. But this rosé is the wine that can handle it all. Delicate enough to play nice with the turkey (which let’s face it, is pretty bland), a little fruit to deal with the cranberries, and exotic enough to stand up to the stuffing, yams, and even pumpkin pie. It’s perfect. It has some of the tanginess you’ll find in a good fino sherry, only a hint of fruit, and lovely exotic spices like cardamom and ginger. It’s an adventurous choice, but who doesn’t want a little adventure for $25?”
White Eric Bordelet Sidre Doux, NV; Normandy, France ($13). “This is a lightly sparkling, slightly sweet apple cider with a typically romantic back story: sommelier at Three Star Parisian restaurant can’t resist the pull of the old, old apple trees on his family’s property back in Normady, leaves the big city to tend the orchards and make cider from the fruits of his labor. The result is perfect for Thanksgiving—it tastes like autumn in a bottle. The sweetness doesn’t really come off as sweet, but more like the sweet spice/warm apple tastes of apple pie. But a very grown-up apple pie. Perfect for before, during, or after the meal.”
Delivery Free below Canal St.
66 W. Broadway (Warren/Murray), 212-346-9544, franklywines.com.

MASLOW 6
Expert Keri Kunzle, founding partner and CEO
Red Domaine Phillippe Colin Santenay, 2006; Burgundy, France ($30). “Santenay reds can have plenty of body and grip, not unlike a hearty Beaune, but they can also possess freshness and elegance. Flavors of ripe raspberries covered in earth, sweet, warm spices, cherries and a hint of mint. A great value for Burgundy and can work with a variety of foods.”
White Channing Daughters Mosaico, 2007; the Hamptons, N.Y. ($30). “Made from a field blend, this is a dry wine with lots of clean, mineral driven aromas and flourishes of melon and tangerine. The wine is medium-bodied with a seductive mouth feel and flavors of stone fruits, citrus, and floral notes. The wine is complex, playful, and satisfying. Intensity of flavor and a spicy finish make it a great match for the holiday meal!”
Delivery Free south of Houston St. ($50 minimum order).
211 West Broadway (Franklin/White), 212-226-3127, maslow6.com.

NEW YORK VINTNERS
Expert Shane Benson, managing partner
Red Dashe Zinfandel Late Harvest, 2007; Sonoma, Calif. (half bottle $28). “Thanksgiving is the all-American holiday, and as result we receive many requests for American wines. Zinfandel is often considered ‘America’s grape’ for its distinct Californian heritage and we believe Dashe’s ‘sweet’ version is a fun alternative. Dashe Cellars was founded in 1996 by the husband and wife team of Anne and Michael Dashe. Fruit for the Late Harvest Zinfandel comes from the great Lily Hill vineyard at Bella Winery (where Mike is the consulting winemaker). The shallow, rocky soils on the steep hills of this vineyard make the vines struggle, which in turn help the vines create very concentrated, complex grapes. For this bottling, the grapes are left, on average, an extra four weeks on the vine to turn them into ‘Late Harvest.’ With enough acid and tannin to keep it from being cloying, it possesses a pretty spice and raisined, port-like character.”
White Abbazia di Novacella Kerner, 2007; Alto-Adige, Italy ($22). “Although a lesser-known varietal for sure, Kerner is a grape we think everyone would enjoy and Abbazia’s is a terrific example. Abbazia di Novacella is one of the oldest wineries in the world, founded in 1142 and located in a working Augustinian abbey. Kerner is a hybrid cross of Riesling and the red grape Schiava. An extremely aromatic varietal, Kerner expresses itself beautifully in the cooler climate of Alto Adige. Exotic floral notes accompanied by aromas and flavors of peach, orange and mango intermix beautifully with the the grape’s distinct minerality. Low enough in alcohol (14 percent) to allow for a legnthy period of drinking, but with enough substance and body to accompany a wide variety of dishes.”
Delivery Free in Manhattan ($150 minimum order).
21 Warren St. (Broadway/Church), 212-812-3999, newyorkvintners.com.

VESTRY WINES
Expert Mike Drapkin, assistant manager/in-house writer for the weekly tasting series
Red Robert Serol Gamay Originelles, 2008; Cote Roannaise, France ($14). “Due west of Lyon, the gastronomical heart of France, there lies an untapped source for vigorously refreshing wines. This is the region of Cote Roannaise, home to undulating granitic hills and hand-crafted wines coming chiefly from Gamay grapes. The Serol family is what you might call winemaking royalty in these parts. The Domaine has been family owned and operated since the late 18th century; and by the 19th century the wines of the Roannais were being consumed liberally by Parisian bohemians and bistro folk. These are lively wines to wash down salty foods.”
White Hexamer Riesling Quarzit, 2008; Nahe, Germany ($21). “The wines of Hexamer are often described as anti-varietal. In other words, the Riesling grape is muted by the place or terroir from which they were grown. For those poetic souls in the crowd, let’s say the Riesling grape is the voice of the earth. The Hexamer Quarzit is a single-parcel bottling from a vineyard composed of only quartzite soil. If you have ever doubted that minerality can be infused in wine, then start here. That is, if you are open to being proved undeniably wrong. This wine is full of snap, green apples, and soul.”
Delivery Free in Tribeca.
65 Vestry St. (at Washington), 212-810-2899, vestrywines.com.