279 Church St.
(bet. White and Franklin)
American (Traditional), Bakery/Coffee

After opening the original Baked in Red Hook in 2005, Renato Poliafito and Matt Lewis took their sweet time before embarking on a second location, wanting it to be neighborhood-specific rather than a cookie-cutter version of the first. The new Baked pays homage less to Tribeca than to a previous occupant: Harmony Theatre, whose “Burlesque” sign has remained a Church Street fixture long after the venue closed. A “cake pole” is installed in the front of the shop; there’s a flashy, Vegas-y “B”—made by Let There Be Neon around the corner—in the dining room; and a vintage dancer shimmies on the menu, tissue paper, and shopping bags. Beyond size—it seats around 40, which makes it twice as large—the new Baked differs mainly from Red Hook’s in that it has an extensive lunch menu. That means quiches and sandwiches, with salads, soups, toasts, and sides. There are plenty of reasons to go before lunch (breakfast options savory and sweet, such as a ham-and-cheese biscuit, granola parfaits, muffins, scones, and Stumptown coffee), and delicious treats all day long (such as cookies, brownies, tarts, whoopie pies, cakes, and more). Everything sold there is made there, as you can see in the glassed-in upstairs kitchen and as you can’t see in the huge kitchen downstairs. Baked has a beer-and-wine license; special events include a monthly gay night called Coffee Grindr.

Baked facadeBaked counterBaked plum ricotta toastBaked ham and cheese sandwichBaked cinnamon rolls