250 Vesey St.
(at North End Ave.)
More casual than fancy

Parm’s L-shaped space at Brookfield Place is divided in two: The front room has a few high tables, a curved bar that seats around 30, a couple of TVs, and a large takeout area; the rear room is all tables and booths. The decor is Italian-American kitsch, with more red than at a Target store, Formica, tin ceilings, vintage-y wallpaper, stacks of canned tomatoes, and oldies on the stereo. The style works better in a Little Italy tenement than in a 1980s office complex: What should feel adoring and/or ironic, like an homage and/or an interpretation, comes off as a bit perfunctory. Then again, no one goes to Parm for the decor. The bro-heaven menu emphasizes sandwiches (available as bread-less platters), but there are also starters, salads, pastas, and even entrées (dine-in only). If the concept is starting to creak, the food is a keeper. It’s more sophisticated and better executed than the setting, or even the menu, lets on.

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