Thanksgiving selections from Vestry Wines

In the words of Christy Frank, owner of Frankly Wines, Thanksgiving dinner is “a wine-pairing nightmare.” So why not hand over the decision to someone who has given the matter serious thought? Wine may not be as traditional as turkey or pumpkin pie, but it’s arguably far more important to the overall success of the meal….

CHAMBERS STREET WINES
Expert John Rankin, sales
Red Quivira Zinfandel, 2006; Dry Creek Valley, Calif. ($19). “For America’s unique holiday, I reach for America’s unique grape: Zinfandel. The rich berry flavors and juicy structure pair perfectly with turkey and all of the trimmings. Quivira meticulously adheres to biodynamic wine making principles including fermentation from natural yeasts in the vineyard.”
White Terres Dorees Beaujolais Blanc, 2008; Charnay, France ($15). “From Chardonnay grown on limestone vineyards in the southern Beaujolais, this lovely wine is a terrific value. No new oak and natural vinification gives a balanced Chardonnay with crisp apple fruit to refresh your guests’ palate after your Thanksgiving feast.”
Delivery Free below Canal St.
148 Chambers St. (W. Broadway/Greenwich), 212-227-1434, chambersstwines.com.

Frankly Wines' recommendations

FRANKLY WINES
Expert Christy Frank
Red Lopez de Heredia Tondonia Rosado, 1998; Rioja, Spain ($25). “Imagine Thanksgiving dinner (the food, not your crazy cousins): cranberry sauce, turkey, yams, stuffing. It’s a wine-pairing nightmare. But this rosé is the wine that can handle it all. Delicate enough to play nice with the turkey (which let’s face it, is pretty bland), a little fruit to deal with the cranberries, and exotic enough to stand up to the stuffing, yams, and even pumpkin pie. It’s perfect. It has some of the tanginess you’ll find in a good fino sherry, only a hint of fruit, and lovely exotic spices like cardamom and ginger. It’s an adventurous choice, but who doesn’t want a little adventure for $25?”
White Eric Bordelet Sidre Doux, NV; Normandy, France ($13). “This is a lightly sparkling, slightly sweet apple cider with a typically romantic back story: sommelier at Three Star Parisian restaurant can’t resist the pull of the old, old apple trees on his family’s property back in Normady, leaves the big city to tend the orchards and make cider from the fruits of his labor. The result is perfect for Thanksgiving—it tastes like autumn in a bottle. The sweetness doesn’t really come off as sweet, but more like the sweet spice/warm apple tastes of apple pie. But a very grown-up apple pie. Perfect for before, during, or after the meal.”
Delivery Free below Canal St.
66 W. Broadway (Warren/Murray), 212-346-9544, franklywines.com.

MASLOW 6
Expert Keri Kunzle, founding partner and CEO
Red Domaine Phillippe Colin Santenay, 2006; Burgundy, France ($30). “Santenay reds can have plenty of body and grip, not unlike a hearty Beaune, but they can also possess freshness and elegance. Flavors of ripe raspberries covered in earth, sweet, warm spices, cherries and a hint of mint. A great value for Burgundy and can work with a variety of foods.”
White Channing Daughters Mosaico, 2007; the Hamptons, N.Y. ($30). “Made from a field blend, this is a dry wine with lots of clean, mineral driven aromas and flourishes of melon and tangerine. The wine is medium-bodied with a seductive mouth feel and flavors of stone fruits, citrus, and floral notes. The wine is complex, playful, and satisfying. Intensity of flavor and a spicy finish make it a great match for the holiday meal!”
Delivery Free south of Houston St. ($50 minimum order).
211 West Broadway (Franklin/White), 212-226-3127, maslow6.com.

NEW YORK VINTNERS
Expert Shane Benson, managing partner
Red Dashe Zinfandel Late Harvest, 2007; Sonoma, Calif. (half bottle $28). “Thanksgiving is the all-American holiday, and as result we receive many requests for American wines. Zinfandel is often considered ‘America’s grape’ for its distinct Californian heritage and we believe Dashe’s ‘sweet’ version is a fun alternative. Dashe Cellars was founded in 1996 by the husband and wife team of Anne and Michael Dashe. Fruit for the Late Harvest Zinfandel comes from the great Lily Hill vineyard at Bella Winery (where Mike is the consulting winemaker). The shallow, rocky soils on the steep hills of this vineyard make the vines struggle, which in turn help the vines create very concentrated, complex grapes. For this bottling, the grapes are left, on average, an extra four weeks on the vine to turn them into ‘Late Harvest.’ With enough acid and tannin to keep it from being cloying, it possesses a pretty spice and raisined, port-like character.”
White Abbazia di Novacella Kerner, 2007; Alto-Adige, Italy ($22). “Although a lesser-known varietal for sure, Kerner is a grape we think everyone would enjoy and Abbazia’s is a terrific example. Abbazia di Novacella is one of the oldest wineries in the world, founded in 1142 and located in a working Augustinian abbey. Kerner is a hybrid cross of Riesling and the red grape Schiava. An extremely aromatic varietal, Kerner expresses itself beautifully in the cooler climate of Alto Adige. Exotic floral notes accompanied by aromas and flavors of peach, orange and mango intermix beautifully with the the grape’s distinct minerality. Low enough in alcohol (14 percent) to allow for a legnthy period of drinking, but with enough substance and body to accompany a wide variety of dishes.”
Delivery Free in Manhattan ($150 minimum order).
21 Warren St. (Broadway/Church), 212-812-3999, newyorkvintners.com.

VESTRY WINES
Expert Mike Drapkin, assistant manager/in-house writer for the weekly tasting series
Red Robert Serol Gamay Originelles, 2008; Cote Roannaise, France ($14). “Due west of Lyon, the gastronomical heart of France, there lies an untapped source for vigorously refreshing wines. This is the region of Cote Roannaise, home to undulating granitic hills and hand-crafted wines coming chiefly from Gamay grapes. The Serol family is what you might call winemaking royalty in these parts. The Domaine has been family owned and operated since the late 18th century; and by the 19th century the wines of the Roannais were being consumed liberally by Parisian bohemians and bistro folk. These are lively wines to wash down salty foods.”
White Hexamer Riesling Quarzit, 2008; Nahe, Germany ($21). “The wines of Hexamer are often described as anti-varietal. In other words, the Riesling grape is muted by the place or terroir from which they were grown. For those poetic souls in the crowd, let’s say the Riesling grape is the voice of the earth. The Hexamer Quarzit is a single-parcel bottling from a vineyard composed of only quartzite soil. If you have ever doubted that minerality can be infused in wine, then start here. That is, if you are open to being proved undeniably wrong. This wine is full of snap, green apples, and soul.”
Delivery Free in Tribeca.
65 Vestry St. (at Washington), 212-810-2899, vestrywines.com.