Previewing Terroir

terroir-wallpaper-by-tribeca-citizenThe folks at Taste of Tribeca invited me to tag along as they checked out Terroir Tribeca, the wine bar going into the space (on Harrison) next to the Harrison. Co-owner Paul Grieco showed us around. There wasn’t much furniture yet, but the vibe is definitely industrial-rustic, sort of like a cross between Landmarc and Marc Forgione. Grieco explained that the French concept of terroir—that not just the land but also the air, sky, water, everything affects what’s grown in a given location—is key to the décor: They’re trying to pay respect to the history of Tribeca by keeping many of the existing elements. “Terroir in the East Village has a rock-and-roll, punk vibe,” said Grieco. “That’s the East Village. But Tribeca is different.”

The restaurant will seat 65 people. The bar area, which seats 34, is on the left as you walk in, and the dining area—the majority of which is devoted to four communal tables—is around the corner to the right. They kept the rough-hewn beams bare, left the tile floor alone, stripped the yellow paint off the brick walls, and took a pile of wood sitting in a corner (the space was most recently home to a caterer) and used it for paneling on a wall and the bar. A steel plate got repurposed as a mirror frame, a bathroom wall, and trim for the bar. The old industrial door that used to lead to the building’s lobby had to be replaced for code, so it got turned into a bathroom door.

Grieco is clearly concerned that people have too-high expectations. He explained that Terroir Tribeca would offer more than the old-school wine bar menu of charcuterie and cheese, but that while you could have a meal of appetizer, entrée, and dessert, there would be only one cook. It’ll stay open till 2 a.m., serving food till 1 a.m., and no hard liquor.

They’re looking at an April 5 or 6 debut, and  there was work to be done, so I knew I couldn’t ask to take more than one photo, just of a detail. I suggested the reclaimed wood that now makes up part of the bar. “Check this out,” Grieco said, directing me to a piece of wood that still has the old wallpaper on it. “Pretty cool.”

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