My better other half and I ate at Telepan Tribeca last night, and let’s say just say the Upper West Side restaurant’s pop-up inside Pécan gets points deducted right off the bat for not going with my suggested name, Telepécan.

I miss my good camera.

Kidding aside, I was charmed from the start: It was a hoot seeing a place I know well dressed up with candles and set tables (including cloth napkins and elegant stemware), while waiters in white shirts and vests stood at attention. The entrance has even been moved, to the Varick side, and there’s a little “lounge” to the right as you enter. I understand that Pécan can’t take down its neon sign or café art, but I would suggest that someone unplug the blue bug-zapper light—that’s it in the mirror, above—during dinner service.

The set menu costs $45 per person, not including wine or beer. As one would expect from chef Bill Telepan (who was at Judson Grill before opening Telepan), the ingredients are all seasonal. There were three small starters—smoked salmon and egg salad crostini, beets with buttermilk and red onion, and mushroom pierogi with asparagus—followed by Maine crab on a carrot slaw (our favorite dish of the night) and a choice of lamb on a bed of ramps or cod with peas. Dessert was a rhubarb–almond crème tart. The menu will change weekly.

Telepan Tribeca is open Wednesday, Thursday, and Fridays, from 6:30 p.m., through May 20. The card that came with the bill says that names will be taken until 10 p.m. Judging from last night, however, when we were among a handful of diners, you shouldn’t have a problem getting in. Come on, Tribeca! Show Bill Telepan some respect! He’s giving us a gift here!

P.S. The restaurant must pour a large glass of wine because I am hurting this morning.