Quiz: Dead Restaurants (Part 3)

Since the Tribeca Citizen Restaurant Guide was founded in 2011, many restaurants have been removed upon their closing. Here are blurbs describing 10 deceased establishments, with their names and other pertinent proper nouns redacted. Feel free to answer in the comments. (All of the restaurants are in Tribeca proper.) These are a bit tougher than Part 1 and Part 2, and subsequent posts will be worse. UPDATE: The answers are at the end.

1. XXXXXX’s partnership with XXXXXX in Osaka serves kaiseki (a ritualized Japanese dinner) in a contemporary, pretty room. To the right is a no-reservation noodle bar. To the left is the dining room, with a larger L-shaped counter fronting the open kitchen and tables along the windows, which are half-papered throughout. The 20,000 paperback books lining a wall in the sushi bar pack visual punch, as do the three tiny dioramas of Japanese market scenes set into them.

2. The calmest restaurant in Tribeca by a mile, XXXXXX celebrates the traditional Japanese art of kaiseki—many small courses, exquisitely prepared and arranged. Several tiers are available, the grandest (and most expensive) of which require reservations at least a day in advance. From outside, the room appears small—and it is, although the ceiling is quite high, and there are more tables (about 10) than you can see through the window. Service is formal but pleasant, and patrons speak in hushed tones.

3. XXXXXX of XXXXXX and XXXXXX has reinvented the old XXXXXX space into a “Latin American grill,” with a pocket take-out taqueria. Upstairs is the restaurant, with a small bar and booths and tables that seat around 70. The place is an encyclopedia of design iconography: Japanese lanterns, Spanish tiles, striped awnings, burlap-sack custom upholstery, bistro light fixtures, wooden blinds, South American bar signage…. But as soon as you get comfortable with the general global-cantina vibe, something else catches your eye—such as ’80s photos of the likes of Siouxsie Sioux and Debbie Harry. Downstairs, meanwhile, is the bar, which feels like a ’70s swinger’s den, complete with a painting of horses humping. The food is not a priority.

4. XXXXXX, the “Jewish American bistro” with ancestral ties to a legendary Catskills resort, is a narrow-ish bar up front, and a huge square dining room in back. The decor in the bar is contemporary; you could be in any attractive downtown restaurant, save a couple vintage resort photos. In the dining room, the brick walls are painted white and lined with plywood slats forming a retro design, and some of the diamond-shaped ceiling light fixtures leave rows of bulbs exposed, adding to the retro vibe. Anyone who grew up eating kreplach, latkes, and kugel will most likely find the food at XXXXXX different. Chef XXXXXX has refashioned classic Jewish-American dishes and flavors in ways that don’t try to hew to tradition. (This is not a Jewish deli.) There’s chopped liver, but it’s chicken and duck; borscht is reinterpreted as a salad; salmon is smoked pastrami-style or crusted with falafel. The menu is an eye-opening reminder of how much Jewish-American cuisine has been absorbed into American food in general.

5. Two young Frenchmen, XXXXXX and XXXXXX, were sitting at a restaurant in Paris when the idea hit: Why not bring real French crepes to America, just like the ones that XXXXXX’s fiancée’s grandmother used to sell in Brittany? Their creperie, XXXXXX, is small but pretty, with at least half of it devoted to the cooking area; a standing counter is in the window. XXXXXX is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The recipe comes the aforementioned grandmother, and there are two types: savory and sweet. Savory ones are made with gluten-free buckwheat flour from Brittany, and you can order from a menu of suggested combinations or build-your-own, à la Chipotle. Sweet crepes might be filled with Bonne Maman preserves, Creme de Salidou caramel sauce from Brittany, Nutella, chocolate…. The crepes are made right in front of you, a process sure to fascinate kids.

6. Offering sushi and an array of hot and cold dishes, the menu at XXXXXX is basically the same as at XXXXXX proper, but XXXXXX is easier to pop into. The room is bring-your-own-lamp dark, creating an atmosphere reminiscent of a Japanese restaurant that has been turned into a nightclub; downtempo electronica adds to the clubby vibe. This is one of those rare restaurants where you might not want to sit on the banquette, given that it’s basically a flat wooden bench.

7. XXXXXX is a boisterous Puerto Rican party, with a level of pizazz one might expect: vibrant colors, a lively bar, loud salsa music, upholstered walls, and bordello chandeliers. The menu is broad and bold, with Latin classics such as ropa vieja, pernil, paella, and lots of plantains. The restaurant is open for lunch (and happy hour starts at 11:30 a.m.).

8. This restaurant has no seating and no pretensions. The menu casts a fairly wide net, but the two main options are barbecue and fried chicken, with the kind of sides associated with those dishes.

9. When was the last time you ate at a restaurant where the servers wore pocket protectors? Or frilly aprons? XXXXXX feels delightfully un-focus-grouped, like the safe, obvious choice got bypassed for something much more fun. Acclaimed chef XXXXXX, who grew up in Wisconsin, wanted to open a place inspired by his love of what Wisconsinites know as “supperclubs”—friendly, casual spots where everyone hung out. The emphasis is as much on the cocktails as on the food, with classic drinks like the Tom Collins and the grasshopper. The food is best described as New Old American: housemade bratwurst sliders, Reuben croquettes, a relish plate that includes pea shoots, a pressure-fried chicken, and a patty melt made with dry-aged beef.

10. With its neon sign and fake-wood exterior, XXXXXX looks like a slice of ungentrified Tribeca—and it is. But the bar, unabashedly a dark, noisy dive, isn’t nearly as rough-and-tumble as The Patriot; it’s more of an unpretentious place to grab a beer (and perhaps a shot, but don’t go ordering a Negroni). There are video games, a pool table, sexy women bartenders, and—a nod to its wider appeal—T-shirts for sale.

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Answers: 1) Brushstroke. 2) Rosanjin. 3) Super Linda. 4) Kutsher’s. 5) By Suzette. 6) Nobu Next Door. 7) Sazon. 8) Cornerstone Grill. 9) The Butterfly. 10) Raccoon Lodge.

 

8 Comments

  1. 9 – Butterfly
    3 – Super Linda
    4 – Kutscher’s

  2. 5 – By Suzette

  3. 10 – Raccoon Lodge

  4. 7. Sazon
    8. Cornerstone Grill

  5. 6. Nobu Next Door?

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