There’s nothing particularly inventive about Anassa Taverna and I think that’s why we all had such a lovely time. The atmosphere is warm, the staff is friendly and experienced and we were immediately comfortable tucked into the corner of the banquette of the bar room — which has long been one of my favorite spots in Battery Park City. It seemed like the place had been there a while.

The Greek restaurant was opened in September by the owners of Harry’s Italian (in the Goldman breezeway and on Gold Street) who teamed up with the operators of Anassa Taverna in Astoria and Midtown to create the concept. They were smart not to disturb the original layout of North End Grill, which worked so well and had a lot of character despite its location in a non-descript BPC brick high-rise.

I’m going to sound like an old lady when I say my favorite things about the place were the generous portions and the low-decibel music, but hey, if the shoe fits… We shared three mains among four of us, and that was perfect. I would go back regularly for the thin slices of Halloumi, the Cypriot cheese that often replaces meat on a vegetarian menu. It was salty and textured with just the right level of chew. And the salmon was perfectly cooked in a buttery sauce with dill and a spinach sauté on the side, which I recommend trying before winter’s over.

Big shout out to the scene-stealer, the hummus, which was light and grainy and tart. And while the Greek meatballs were not special, they were delicious dipped in the tomato sauce with feta.

That space has the unique ability to work for big groups and small ones too — I now have been there with both, taking up the entire banquette in the grill room one time, and hiding around the corner from the main bar another. And one of my favorite perches is still in place: the large railroad-tie that doubles as a narrow bar along the windows that fold open in summer. Plus there are bar seats at the open kitchen and of course the more formal area in the back. Oh, and they just added weekend brunch from 11:30 to 4p.

Something for everyone.

Anassa Taverna Downtown
104 North End Avenue
646-968-1025 for reservations (or use Resy)
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays (for now — check the website)