I never noted here that Girello closed — I guess during the pandemic? I can check in with Walker’s… But either way, now coming in its place at 11 Varick is what (I assume, since otherwise it would be too much of a coincidence) is a second offshoot of Osteria Carlina in the West Village and the third restaurant of three pals from Turin. (For the record, Girello opened in 2011.)

Carlo Rolle, Moreno Cerutti, and Davide Poggi Ferrari first opened San Carlo Osteria Piemonte on Thompson to feature the cuisine of the Alpine foothills (Piemonte is the capital of Turin). Cerutti and his wife (along with other investors) opened Osteria Carlina in December 2021 at Hudson and Morton.

When it opened, Eater raved about the flavors and the prices: there’s a separate truffle menu where a plate of angel hair goes for $80. (The regular mains range from $28 for the pizza to $47 for the veal chop.) From Eater: “The most fabled dish in this region is vitello tonnato ($19). It mystifies many American gourmands that a sauce made from canned tuna can be spectacular, but then this is no Chicken of the Sea tuna salad sandwich. Here the tinned seafood is transformed into a sauce so smooth and airy it seems to have no texture at all, just briny beige deliciousness. The sauce is poured over curls of pink roast veal served at room temperature.”

More TK.