S. has been keeping an eye on TAQ — the fusion taqueria on Warren — for me, and we both ended up there last night, which turns out was the restaurant’s first! Ordinarily I would not introduce a New Kid on day two, but I see no reason to wait (the grand opening is Nov. 1). We both think it’s a great addition to the neighborhood and since this is from a mother-son duo who opened the first TAQ in Ann Arbor six years ago, they know the routine.

The concept is simple: everything and anything in a taco. And the list is expansive. There are five categories (chicken, beef, pork, vegetarian and seafood) with two to five options in each. They all come in a 6-inch soft corn tortilla and they are big — my pal and I had three each and that was plenty. (We also ordered a seventh since it was the daily special — roasted brussels sprouts.) They send out a fork which is a good idea since they are kind of over stuffed and a bit messy but so good.

The flavors are not (necessarily) Mexican — and that is kind of the point. They do not claim to be authentic. In fact, the taco titles announce that right away. There’s a Thai, an Italiano, a Griego; though most of the titles are in Spanish, the flavors are global. Weekends have a completely different taco brunch menu.

I would go back even today for the grilled wild mushroom or the panko-crusted eggplant with the citrus arugula salad. Both have a good amount of greens included — in fact the proportions of meat to toppings was just about perfect. My pal loved the blackened shrimp — when they say there’s kick, there is — and the black beans with sweet potato. You can get any of the above in a lettuce wrap in place of a taco.

All the burritos are $7 or $8; the house margarita was $10. They don’t have their beer ready to go yet, but there is a promise of six taps.

The space was smartly designed by Andrea Kerzner from Lekka Burger to be beautiful yet indestructible — the walls are tiled, but with texture; the wood lattice on the ceiling makes it so much more beautiful and warm than a tiled commercial ceiling. The TAQ folks simplified things — the woven, colorful lamps are now just globes — but it still looks great.

We sat at the raised built-in hightops across from the bar, which are really comfortable — they have a foot rest and a padded seat. Even the bathrooms took me by surprise — they are in great shape.

This is table service, where Lekka was not, and it’s first come, first served (though I am sure they would put a big table together if you needed it — they can seat up to 10). And the staff was really, really lovely. Tell Michael we said hi when you go by.

TAQ | Taqueria Restaurant & Bar
81 Warren | Greenwich & West Broadway
212-301-7624
info@taqnewyork.com
Seven days, noon to 10p