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BEC Report: Rigor Hill Market
My son and I are working our way through the neighborhood, one bacon, egg and cheese — or some close variation on that — at a time. He’s a Morgan’s devotee, which I applaud, but he’s willing to make the rounds with me on this nonetheless.
So: Rigor Hill Market. I first visited the next-door-cafe for One White Street for this express purpose last fall, when chef Austin Johnson told us how he cranks out 400 to 500 breakfast sandwiches a day.
“They are built for speed,” he notes.
The chefs use an immersion blender for the eggs, adding crème fraîche and herbs, pouring them in a 9×12 pan wrapped with Saran. Then they switch the combination oven to steam, to keep the eggs moist and fluffy — or I would say springy. “It’s a similar texture to Japanese tamagoyaki [folded omelets],” Austin said. The sheet of eggs is then cut into squares and assembled with a sweet tomato jam and cheddar on thick slices of lightly toasted pain de mie, which is your typical French sandwich loaf.
I ate mine open faced, since it’s a super thick. And nice and cheesy. Of course we added bacon. And of course I ate the rest of the bread eventually.
Without the bacon, the breakfast sandwich is $15, $18 with the bacon. “It’s fitting with the French custom of making small things cost a lot of money,” my son said. I could have easily eaten it in two sittings. And the final assessment, keeping in mind these are the words of a 21-year-old boy without a job (yet): “It’s not worth three Morgan sandwiches ($6.75 with two eggs), but it’s for sure worth two and a half.”
27 Comments
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500 breakfast sandwiches A DAY? Or could it be a week?? Either way, gotta try this…
They are not making/selling 500 breakfast sandwiches a day!
That’s 2 per minute from 8am-12pm
Who checks this stuff?!
The prices here are so obnoxious.
Rigor Hill serves high quality (notably, a casual menu prepared by an award-winning restaurant next door) and primarily locally grown food at a high price, which…makes sense.
Americans spend far less on food today, as a percentage of income, than they did a century ago. While some of that change is because of production/distribution improvement, much of the decline in cost is attributed the absolutely horrendous quality of food that the vast majority of Americans consume (and with it, awful chronic health outcomes and healthcare costs, and a degraded environment and water supply). So yeah…a lot of food is cheap for consumers to buy, because it’s also cheap for retailers to buy and prepare…these low-cost places aren’t charities, they just have much lower costs.
And, while it shouldn’t need to be repeated every time this lovely local paper profiles a newer high-end spot, there are PLENTY of significantly cheaper options for breakfast/lunch food in the neighborhood. Choice, what a concept!
“Reader” Can you please add the name of the PR company you work for. A bit wordy and condescending with too much food safety blather thrown in. A magnificently ineffective effort.
Took the words out of my mouth, thanks Harrison.
ChatGPT + PR jargon reply
I think that’s inordinately harsh. This person’s opinion is cogent and not uncommon or unusual. Your taking it upon yourself to comment on their writing style is uncalled for. Dismissing their argument with the single word “blather” does not display any insight that would persuade me you’re correct. And I would personally take umbrage at being accused of being a professional shill.
And a quick PS if I may: High-quality or rare, small-batch ingredients DO cost a great deal, and often taste better than the common supermarket versions, and are more nutritious or at least remove the threat of unwanted substances. Careful preparation takes time and experience. I’m not saying either of those elements are at play here because I don’t know the establishment. But add to that the fact that everyone wants to make a good living and there’s nothing the least bit unusual about the OP’s posting. I don’t know why coherently pointing this out grinds your gears.
Look, another virtue signal!
The Michelin shills are out in full force today
Really? That’s your full take on what I wrote? Did you read it?
I can’t imagine why people speaking reasonably are assumed to be lying imposters. I don’t think the issue at hand is the issue here.
Just a neighborhood dad who loves good food, and is grateful to RH for making the neighborhood a lovelier place to live; but thanks for the snark, neighbor!
Egg sandwiches and BLTs on offer for nearly $20 a pop before tax and tip
Ouch.
Who’s buying this? TikTok brunchers and nanny’s with their overlord’s AMEX card?
All that money for some steamed sheetpan egg and basic bread
Can we at least get our scrambled eggs in between a croissant if you’re going to charge $15?
I love One White Street. But the way they, along with Rigor Hill, take up most of the sidewalk at the corner of White and West Broadway is unexceptable.
Amen Don!
Aligned – it’s become another triplex stroller parking lot and dog run
Came with family over long weekend – both daughters said the breakfast sandwiches were “mid”
Not sure what this means?
Everyone attacks the price but look at the location situated in the middle of multi-million dollar residences. I think they can afford it.
Am I reading that right – $50 for a takeout rotisserie chicken?! SMH
Looks yummy.
Any possibility of a story, staff interviews on Cafe Clementine?
Formerly in that space and now on Greenwich
I did a feature when they opened in the new space.
https://tribecacitizen.com/2023/06/02/old-kid-on-a-new-block-cafe-clementine/
Wow, a lot haters for what’s become such a popular and beloved Tribeca corner. I’m guessing these comments come from adjacent neighbors who are all angry about the crowds that follow Rigor’s success.
As for the others complaining about price, I guess you either appreciate the difference between Michelin level chef food versus bodega egg sandwiches and are willing to pay for it, or you aren’t.
I’ve been in Tribeca 15 years and One White and Rigor have become local treasures and in the short time they’ve been here.
Some of these comments are wild! They must be doing something right to bring out the trolls. I’d bet the farm that most griping about price have no idea what it takes—sourcing from Hudson Valley, supporting local artisans, paying livable wages and benefits to the team, not to mention keeping the lights on and the rent paid. If thoughtful food and the real cost of quality aren’t for you, simply go elsewhere. Lighten up, people.
The reality is this: this is hands down the pinnacle of breakfast sandwiches—a triumph between two slices of bread. I’ve never had anything like it. And the corner you get to enjoy it on? A symphony of warmth and energy, the neighborhood humming like a well-tuned instrument. There’s almost a European charm to watching people gather, slow down, chat with strangers, and savor something crafted with care. Sure, some may scoff, preferring their solitude over the vibrant street, but for me, it’s a joy to watch a community rise from a place that’s there to serve and welcome. That reflects an incredible chef and team. Good for them!
Kudos for spotlighting this gem. Peace, love, and breakfast glory!
4-500 sandwiches a day?
That’s not right – even a busy McDonalds doesn’t keep up with that clip
Are they open on weekends?
I used to be obsessed with the Rigor Hill breakfast sandwiches — they are one of a kind. They used to be prepared to order and the bread would get delightfully crisp. However, with increased popularity, they started preparing them in batches — in their entirety, grilled bread and all — pre-wrapped in foil. This means the steam from the bread and toasted eggs gets trapped in the foil and makes the sandwiches a sad, soggy mess. I used to be ok with the price, but $15 for a soggy wet sandwich is a no-go.
Since they switched to this method I’ve gone back once or twice and asked if I could get one prepared fresh; once they were able to accommodate but not since then. Sadly I’ll stick to other places in the neighborhood unless the fresh crispy bread is an option again!
Experienced the same sog issue during my last visit
Please make fresh or reduce prices