Don’t read into the fact that it took me nine months to write up Forge as a New Kid — I’ve now been there three times and it may just be the quintessential Tribeca restaurant. I know I’m going to ignite a firestorm with that title but hear me out. (There are caveats and parameters, Goldilocks-style, that make this work.)

It’s new but not *really* new — Marc Forgione opened his first restaurant on Reade in 2008. So it’s not really a Tribeca trailblazer (I’m thinking Tribeca Grill) but it sort of did catch the wave.

It will not make my list of moderately priced restaurants, but it’s manageable by employing my favorite modus operandi: appetizer and a glass.

It’s definitely fine dining but not so fine that it’s exclusively destination dining. Again, caveats. I love having destination dining in Tribeca. We should be proud that we live among so many Michelin stars and James Beard finalists. But Forge can also be your Tuesday-night-with-a-pal-whose-kid-went-to-Church-Street-School-with-your-kid-18-years-ago meet-up spot.

It’s original (though Forgione’s restaurant group also has One Fifth and Peasant); unique; yes, expensive but not beyond (see the menus below for a sense, but it’s around $22 for appetizers and $45 for entrees); fashionable but not so much that locals can’t get in.

The space is also cozy and warm (it’s formerly Brushstroke, which closed in 2018) — if it’s on your list, go while it’s cold. On my most recent visit I went at 6p on a rainy Monday — it’s a good location if your date is coming from Brooklyn — and we enjoyed the quiet at the bar before the buzz really ramps up.

The food is great. I would just reorder exactly what I got last time, and the two of us shared all of these: the Laotian sushi (the sticky rice sticks to your teeth but it is so worth it); the salmon croquettes (a solid portion, and so lightly breaded — served with piping hot creme fraiche and caviar, which we finished with a spoon); the Montauk scallops, which got oohs and aahs from our neighbors at the bar — it’s a really special dish with little neck clams, delicata squash and a bit of uni. The grilled bread had some sort of bean paste as a schmear — amazing. The menu changes a lot, so I might be teasing here, so sorry about that.

My pal said it best: they’re not trying to make up for the food with the presentation. It’s unfussy, beautiful, delicious, hearty.

Forge
30 Hudson | Reade and Duane
212-941-9401
info@marcforgione.com
Monday – Thursday 5 to 9:30p
Friday – Saturday 5 to 10p