February 20, 2025 Restaurant/Bar News
Nonna Dora’s, a handmade pasta restaurant out of Kips Bay, has taken a 10-year lease at the former Tribeca’s Kitchen/Marathi space at 200 Church at Duane. Thanks to K. for sending the announcement in Traded.
The restaurant opened in 2022, a showcase for the homemade pasta of Addolorata Marzovilla, known as Dora. Now about 87, Dora immigrated here in the 1970s at the age of 34, she first worked as a seamstress but when her son, Nicola, opened a restaurant as an adult, she started making pasta for him. His last place, I Trulli, closed in 2022, so Dora opened her own.
“I like making pasta” Ms. Marzovilla told The New York Times when Nonna Dora’s opened, adding that she also liked being around people. The Times went on: “This allows her to do both. Her son made it clear that this was her project, not his, though he is an adviser…Ms. Marzovilla’s menu, with a strong nod to her native Puglia, cuts no corners, offering a lengthy list of appetizers that includes panzerotti and Sunday meatballs. The pastas, just shy of 20 choices, include cavatelli with broccoli rabe and almonds; tagliatelle with wild mushrooms and truffles; orecchiette in rabbit ragú; three kinds of lasagna; maccheroncini grano arso (burnt wheat) with duck; and mezzelune stuffed with shrimp and mushrooms.”
The food is also available to go.
The a la carte prices are not on their website, but there is a five-course pasta tasting for $78 and a three course dinner, with an appetizer, pasta and dessert, is $54.
Community Board 1 and the upstairs neighbors have given the past operators — and potential operators — of that space a very hard time. The owner of 1803 tried in 2023 to install a fine dining restaurant there and he was shot down by CB1, and by then he had been paying rent for quite a while. Tribeca’s Kitchen was shot down for a sidewalk cafe, for reasons I never understood. I have not seen an application for a liquor license for Dora, but I will double check.
When Marathi, formerly Tribeca’s Kitchen, closed in July 2023, that was the end of an era for the neighborhood — and a horribly tragic chapter. Owner Andreas Koutsoudakis had transformed the space twice after his father, Andy, died during the pandemic. Andy — and that’s how the whole neighborhood knew him, since he often sat outside the door on a stool greeting passersby and customers alike — opened Gee Whiz in 1989 with his then-partner, Peter Panayiotou, who also died in the pandemic. Peter’s sons operate Gee Whiz still.
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I ate there for the first time last week. It’s fantastic and I cannot wait for it to open! Is there an opening date yet?
I Trulli was one of our favorite restaurants and we spent many a Mothers Day and Christmas Eve and other occasions celebrating there. Nicola is a wonderful man, and family is important to him. Dora’s sauce if of another world, and her occasional Sunday family-style meals were to die for. The neighborhood is lucky to have a terrifically unpretentious but delicious option!