There’s a lot to cover with Printemps, the new American iteration of the famous French department store. But I will start with my recommendations on how to incorporate a walkabout with a snack, which, on my two visits with pals, was the way to do it:

Option 1: Arrive around 8:30 or 9a and have coffee and a quite excellent croissant or the GF sesame cookie at Café Jalu (it opens at 8a), at the entrance on the ground floor. It’s so pretty and the staff is relaxed and friendly. There are endless debates about the best croissants in this not-French town, but these really put the lamination to work. Tour the museum — I mean the store — when it opens at 10, starting on the ground floor for a quick lap, then up the escalator in the south corner, then wander across and through the second floor (don’t miss the bathrooms), descending the stair on the north corner into the Red Room Bar and the Red Room. You can exit there to Wall Street.

Option 2: Arrive around 6 to tour the store for an hour (it closes at 7) before hitting the Red Room Bar, an ornate and pretty fabulous cocktail lounge, The bar snacks are limited, so while the hours go till 11, you will need to think about dinner elsewhere.

(The restaurant menus were all designed by chef Gregory Gourdet; the flagship will be Maison Passerelle, which should open this month. Plan on classic French dishes reinterpreted using ingredients and techniques from the former French colonies. The architect was Laura Gonzalez, and you have to congratulate her. Even the bathrooms and the changing rooms have a unique style, with corrugated brass walls and patterned mirrored doors.)

There’s also Salon Vert, the lunch spot upstairs. The light there is wonderful, and we enjoyed sitting at the bar. I have the menu sampled below; judge for yourself. I will say that everything was carefully prepared and very fresh. But NB: even the roasted cauliflower was served cold. Maybe that’s a French thing? They open at 11a.

So, to the store! (Note that I only glanced at one price tag: the Birkenstocks, which are the same price as anywhere. Otherwise I didn’t see the point.) It is absolutely remarkable in its design. There is not a turn, not a corner, that has not been carefully considered. The rugs are incredible, but even more: the lighting — so don’t forget to look up and look down. The pink petticoat chandeliers are genius. Don’t miss the passage from the Salon to the Boudoir through the beauty corridor. It was not well planned in terms of flow — it’s only one person wide and it is the only way through to the other half of the store — but it’s super fun to be ensconced in a glowing white grotto.

It is also a startling pleasure to encounter sales people who are 1) trained and 2) working on commission — in other words, they are really nice. There were graduates of fashion schools among them, transplants from Bendel’s, style icons themselves. You spot them by the green beaded lapel pin.

There are several really unique services, including a spa where the rooms have nature surround sound and TheTEN Atelier — where a renowned designer and patternmaker will consult on reviving or redesigning vintage pieces in your wardrobe.

One note: according to more than one salesperson, the store is only 30 percent full. They are having trouble getting stuff over from France. (Tariffs?) So it is spare, but they promised that goods will be flowing soon…

Totally worth a stroll down in the meantime.

Printemps
One Wall Street on Broadway
Seven days, 10a to 7p
212-217-2299