Neighborhood joints on The Times’ 100 Best Restaurants list

The Times is continuing former food critic Pete Wells’ 100 Best Restaurants in New York City list, now with food writers Melissa Clark and Priya Krishna doing the bulk of the tasting. New to the list and within a stroll: Chambers, Crown Shy, Jungsik, Lucia Pizza (well, they name the one on Avenue X but I am going with the one on Canal), Thai Diner and Golden Diner, along with two-timers (at least) Frenchette and Houseman.

Here are some excerpts:

CHAMBERS
“The star sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier has built a cellar several thousand bottles deep that includes a range of vintages, hard-to-get cult favorites and even more obscure (and often affordable) bottles made with a commitment to conscientious farming. To accompany this vinous bounty, the Gramercy Tavern alumnus Jonathan Karis cooks earnestly, seasonally and originally, offering a concise menu with dishes that work just as well with a 1999 Thierry Allemand Cornas as they do with a simple glass of rosé.”

CROWN SHY
“The menu at Crown Shy — which sits, curiously, in a financial district office lobby yet possesses none of that staidness — matches this excitement, bringing bright and unexpected twists to dishes (gnocchi, roasted short rib) you thought you already knew.”

JUNGSIK
“Each course in the tasting menu is Korean through and through, like kimbap with paper-crisp seaweed and slivers of fish draped not inside, but on top, so you can really taste the quality.”

LUCIA PIZZA
“The ‘original pizza,’ with a quick smear of sauce and a fistful of torn basil, could summon the ghost of Dom DeMarco. The clam version could go toe-to-toe with New Haven’s best, and the caramelle piccanti, with cherry peppers, pepperoni and hot honey, tastes like a re-energized version of a cheese slice.”

GOLDEN DINER
“There’s brilliant breakfast food on offer at all hours, like the gone-viral, feather-light honey butter pancakes and Chinatown egg and cheese. The kitchen has mastered lunchtime grails like the classic tuna melt, offered along with Asian rice and beans, and a supremely beefy burger topped with mushroom gochujang.”

THAI DINER
“Ann Redding and Matt Danzer have created a particular genre of Thai American cooking that leans hard into fish sauce and chiles and doesn’t take itself too seriously. The retro-looking Thai Diner excels at classic dishes like khao soi and pad Thai, yet also infuses French toast with Thai tea and mixes tom yum soup with tomato bisque. No matter what you order, expect loud, fiery flavors and playful touches, like a pair of googly eyes on your pineapple chiffon cake.”

FRENCHETTE
“Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr’s food is better than ever, and the service, calm and confident, contributes to a feeling of deep well-being, from the first plate of warm, smoked trout beignets to the last bite of bittersweet tarte au chocolat.”

HOUSEMAN
“Ned Baldwin is … obsessed with the source, quality and minute details of everything he serves at his homey, expectation-busting neighborhood restaurant. You could argue that whether a chef caught that fresh, sparkling striped bass for the daily special or bought it straight off the boat doesn’t matter as much as the expert way he prepares it — in this case, cured in kombu, slicked with pungent olive oil, showered with sour orange zest.”

 

2 Comments

  1. Eulalie should be on the list.

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