New Kid on the Block: Super Linda

Super Linda has finally opened, and it’s far more interesting than indicated by the placid façade, a cleaning-up of the old Greek restaurant Delphi. I haven’t eaten there yet, but the design is so loaded with details that I feel sort of full anyway. If you’ve been to Smith & Mills or Tiny’s, then you know that owner Matt Abramcyk has a magpie’s taste, layering on textures, objets, and so on. Even the welcome mat is an oportunidad.

I don’t remember Delphi well enough to say if anything remains beyond the arches and atrium, but I doubt it. There’s a check-in window in the foyer, and then—if you’re approved?—you’re in the restaurant proper. A bar with around 10 stools is on the right. Whenever I peeked in the windows over the past few weeks, I was surprised to see the dropped ceiling. Naturally, that got the treatment, too.

To the left are various booths and tables—seating around 70—with the atrium on a slightly lower level. My photos make it look dingy, but it’s not.

The place is an encyclopedia of design iconography: Japanese lanterns, Spanish tiles, striped awnings, burlap-sack custom upholstery, bistro light fixtures, wooden blinds, South American bar signage, that dropped ceiling….But as soon as you get comfortable with the general global-cantina vibe, something else catches your eye—such as ’80s photos of the likes of Siouxise Sioux and Debbie Harry, or the Robert Longo-y image at the top of the staircase (which leads to the Tenoverten nail salon, co-owned by Abramcyk’s wife? For margarita deliveries?).

The space struck me as better-looking in person than it’s probably appearing here, and likely to come alive when it’s full of people—and it will be. I’m hesitant about exactly who will be eating here—and how raucous they’ll be—because unlike Tiny’s and S&M, Super Linda feels less like a neighborhood restaurant and more like a party waiting to happen. Maybe it was those ’80s photos, but the restaurant that kept popping into my mind was Indochine, back when it mattered.

In any event, if you thought upstairs was a bit of a hothouse, wait till you see the downstairs bar.

Not to get all grad student on you, but wood paneling is a signifier for anyone of a certain age (i.e., around 40) that we’re in cherry-popping territory. (Or maybe it’s just me and Fiona Apple.) From the looks of the private rooms, your Latin lover likes horses. Do you like to ride?

No, really. Do you like to ride?

You have to admire it; no, you have to crown it Restaurant Artwork of the Year. This was the point, however, when I wondered what Super Linda was doing in Tribeca. I love the neighborhood, but not because it’s fun. Then again, I’m not sure Super Linda would be half as charming if it were in Williamsburg or the East Village. The adjacent rooms, meanwhile, have an entirely different sensibility. The colors reminded me of a bowling-alley cocktail bar, and yet I don’t think that’s an insult—I think that may have been what they were going for.

 

When I imagine my partner and myself sitting on that little red banquette, I giggle. Which might be the point? At the end of the day, the downstairs is probably for a demographic that no longer includes me. It’s possible Super Linda itself is for a different demo; I’ll have to return when it’s crowded to tell. Then again, maybe that doesn’t matter. Maybe we should just be happy to have a lively, creative, new restaurant. After all, why look a gift horse in the mouth?

P.S. I forgot to take a photo of the menu.

UPDATE: I’m closing comments because I’m sick of hearing about the Beatrice Inn. For more than a year, I’ve blocked the obsessive comments about Abramcyk and the Beatrice Inn, but Lenny snuck through. If anyone has comments about Super Linda, you can add them to Super Linda’s page in the Tribeca Citizen Restaurant Guide. Lenny, if you comment on that page at all—or even mention Abramcyk or the Beatrice Inn in any comment—I’ll block you from the site. This isn’t the place to avenge whatever your particular issue is.

Super Linda is at 109 W. Broadway (at Reade), superlindanyc.com.

Recent New Kid on the Block/First Impressions articles:
Lotus Blue
Art Projects International
Annelore
North End Grill
Vintry Fine Wines
Blue Smoke
Damon Liss Design/Liss Real Estate Group
French Kiss Boudoir Photography
CrossFit 212
Polarn O. Pyret

 
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14 Comments

  1. I don’t think anyone will be paying much attention to the mouths of those particular horses!

  2. Could those horses be their answer to the ‘must-see’ bathrooms at Bar 89? Seems odd for a place that will likely be reserved for little kids’ birthday parties.

  3. oooo-aaaaah

  4. The interior decor is quite eclectic!

  5. was there last night, it’s awesome.

  6. I think that’s the main problem! We are all becoming voyeuristic restaurateurs with the ‘Disney-fication’ of the eating experience. Although we have great chefs popping left and right, there’s also a sense that if a space looks nice , then the menu can be an afterthought. 

  7. If you are describing a place as the “hottest ticket in town,” then it has to be the Nottest ticket in town. Yeah, I said it. “Matt isn’t important?” So Andre is “important?” To whom? Which flock of sheep? I could give a tiddly wink or two, and throw in a rat’s ass, oh and a side of baked ziti. Now I must go stand in line for a cupcake at Magnolia Bakery…what? It’s the hottest ticket in town!

  8. Thenny you should have said that was your point to begin with. I think the Matt/Andre/Paul/Beatrice Inn-hubbaloopalooza expose would be better served in Vanity Fair or Page Six…or Seven. From what I’ve gathered, Erik strives to stay above the Fashion Week fall out and how and/or if it affects the rotation of the Earth. They really should put a velvet rope at Magnolia Bakery. Have you seen the people they let into that place? Good Lord, do you have to touch all of the cupcakes?! And does anyone know where I can get some of Gywneth Paltrow’s Goop-Off? I need to get some goopy stuff off of my hardwoods. Thanks!

  9. My, my Lenny….some one has an axe to grind. You go, girl!!! What else did they do? Come on!! Don’t hold back, let it all out!! You will feel better. I disagree about people’s interest in a velvet rope at Magnolia. You’ll see, right after Fashion Week, when the velvet rope supply returns, they’ll put one up. How about that Lady Gaga, Lenny? She’s sumpin’, huh? Looks like she got caught in a tuna net. Oh, I am sorry, I know, it’s “fashion.”

  10. Heavens to murgatroid…I didn’t realize it was a vast conspiracy to corner the Tribeca real estate market by the NY Rangers so they can make their iced moonshine in the basement!!! Matt must be just the cover, he is the victim in all of this madness. Lenny, you get the Fashion Week’s Whistle Blower of the Week Award. Do you have any dirt on Andre? Is he working with the Knicks?

  11. Velvet Rope Cupcake?!!! GENIUS!!! Rachel (TriBeCa TrEaTs) are you listening? Lenny not only uncovered illegalities in our midst, he has unknowingly created your new cupcake flavor of the Fashion Week!!! He’s a mad hater!! Love him! Unfortunately, no one is too concerned about the going-ons of Andre, I just wish my food delivery would get here. Sweet Jesus, I called 45 minutes ago!

  12. Well if Andre is bringing my food delivery, I would love to meet him. No velvet rope or nothing. I’ll buzz him right in. We can have story time all he wants. Seriously, how long does it take to make a B.L.T with a side of mac & cheese?

  13. Lenny, I know my blood sugar is low, but did you order from the same place? You seem delirious from hunger too. Let’s stay focused here, we know from your previous comments that Matt & Andre have met. That’s been established. There’s no uncertainty there. Matt has…BUZZZZZZZZZZ…..Oooh, my food is here!!

  14. You’re guessing they will talk? Two important people like Sean Avery & Andre Savalva HAVE to talk. They need to discuss important plans about important stuff. And Matt A. isn’t important, well that’s obvious since his panties keep bunching up. He should try boxer briefs from Calvin Klein. Oooh Calvin Klein, he’s important, right Lenny? Just so you know, I threw out of all my baby gates and just put velvet ropes in front of the stairs, I am sure my 2-yr old will know not to venture past the rope, unless she is wearing something f**king fabulous!