I went to the newly opened National September 11 Memorial yesterday afternoon, having reserved a pass back in July. Here’s some nuts-and-bolts info about what to expect. (Once a travel editor, always a travel editor.)
••• The security process wasn’t overbearing, and lines were exceedingly short; they may get worse on weekends, I suppose. You can leave your shoes on when you pass through the metal detector.
••• Currently, you enter the security compound from the southeast, at Albany and Greenwich, snaking along the perimeter for a while until you’re on the western side. (This will change with construction, I believe.) The signs say that eventually you’ll be able to enter the memorial plaza from all four directions.
••• There was plenty of elbow room when I was there—so much that I wondered if they were limiting the number of people on the first day.
••• If it’s sunny, bring sunglasses and a hat. The trees offer little shade at this point, and the bright stone, water, and glass-and-steel buildings make for a lot of glare.
••• The security took five minutes or so, and we were at the memorial for maybe 20 minutes. Those of us who live north of the WTC will want to budget more time for the visit, however, because….
••• You exit out on West Street. There’s a visitor center (with gift shop) nearby in 90 West, but it’s pretty subdued and you can choose to ignore it. I peeked in—it’s where I shot the map above—and it struck me as being just like the one up at Vesey and Church.
So how was it? The degree to which it succeeds as a memorial will depend much upon on the visitor, I think—and that’s true of any memorial. Certainly, the names around the pools gain even more emotional currency when you see flowers and flags placed by one or someone mourning (by, say, doing a rubbing of the name). The white noise of the waterfalls forces a hush over the memorial, so that even if people are speaking—and they are, along with posing for photos, listening to tour guides, and making phone calls—the hush wins.
Personally, I was simply fascinated to be in a part of the city that’s been off limits for a decade. I loved getting a different view of 1WTC and 4WTC, a better sense of where 2WTC and 3WTC will be (you can peek through fencing into their foundations), and an idea of how Greenwich Street will flow through the site.
P.S. The striped, relatively low-slung building is the Museum Pavilion.
I found it to be a calm oasis in the midst of lower Manhattan although the waterfall hush doesn’t really cancel out the sound of traffic on West Street.
Curious to hear more about Greenwich St. running through the WTC site? Can’t really fathom how this is to happen? Will it be just a street for pedestrians ?
@D.: One of the criticisms of the old WTC was that it obstructed the flow of city life, especially due to Greenwich being blocked like that. Unless I’m mistaken, Greenwich will be open to cars. It didn’t seem like a strange notion when I was on site (and it will really bring to life the area to the south), although of course there were no cars there now as it’s a construction zone.
I thought about taking photos of the areas under construction, but I figured I’d get hauled off to Guantánamo.
The security was a bit TSA-ish, although I got to keep my shoes on. Lost a small pocket knife that I had to the x-ray screener. Still annoyed about that, but they were nice about it.
Overall it was very well done, and I enjoyed the lack of people. Glad they’re keeping the crowds down, and hope they keep that up. There’s a lot to take in. As the trees grow in, I think it will be an amazing place to get solace from the city.
My photos from yesterday here:
http://photos.leesoft.com/photos.cgi?album=2011/sept11memorial
A beautiful place to reflect, and yes, I also hope they keep the crowds down also… To all of the Construction and Utility Workers who made it happen… Thank you…
Great Pictures, Albert Lee!!!