New Kid on the Block: Edith’s Sandwich Counter

Taking up residence during the quiet hours at Tiny’s is Edith’s Sandwich Counter, a to-go only setup in the doorway of the restaurant on West Broadway serving breakfast and lunch daily, Monday to Friday. The owner — Elyssa Heller — said the arrangement with Tiny’s is permanent, and that she is poised to open another sandwich counter in Manhattan in the next weeks. (Some of her menu items will be added to Tiny’s on the weekends.)

Heller opened Edith’s first as a pop-up in Williamsburg in 2020 — a pandemic silver lining — and has since garnered much acclaim for her crafty breakfast sandwiches — her BEC&L includes a latke for crunch and an added layer of flavor — and for her dedication to discovering the best of Jewish food from around the world. She calls it “new-age and historically-inspired takes” on classics.

Take the bagel: it is small, dense, chewy and twisted — heavily seeded when seeds are engaged, and seasoned. The everything is “Chicago-style,” (this was new to me) which means there’s red pepper flakes including in the everything list. It’s got kick. She serves one signature drink: an iced café, a rich and frosty mixture of old brew, tahini, oat milk and simple syrup extruded from a whirling slushie machine set up on the bar.

We also ordered the Middle Eastern, which has an omelette-style egg with house-made tomato jam, Israeli farmers cheese — which my son said tasted like it was straight from the goat, in a good way — Aleppo pepper and herbs. The wrap itself on her signature Sephardi breakfast wrap is buttery and flaky but somehow it is dairy-free. That comes with chicken sausage, cheesy scrambled eggs, pickled Fresno peppers, herbs and harissa mayo and was exceptional but I would go light on the mayo next time.

I took the turkey hoagie — but with cauliflower in place of turkey — on the road for later that night and thought it would make a really good salad. Next time I am going for the chickpea schnitzel on an Israeli salad.

NB: As with everything in Tribeca lately, prices are steep. The BEC&L is $13.50; the hoagie is $16.50 (but could serve two people); the iced café is $8.25.

Right now, the counter is fitted into the doorway, which means while the seats outside are available, the tables in are not. Not sure if that will change for winter, and I also didn’t ask if the bathrooms are available — someone report back on that one. But for now, the pro tip is take the to-go to Bogardus or Duane Park and that’s pretty much as good as it gets.

Edith’s Sandwich Counter
At Tiny’s, 135 West Broadway
Monday-Friday, 8a to 3p