Effusive comes easy when it comes to Eulalie, the new restaurant from chef Chip Smith and Tina Vaughn that opened last December in the old Bâtard space, so I won’t fight it. Our evening there was really one of the most delicious, fun, gracious dining experiences I have had in decades. There are no glitches, no missteps, no awkward patronizing or short-tempered service. The word that comes to mind, as overused as they both are, is genuine and authentic. These folks love to cook and to serve. So it’s no surprise that within a couple months of opening, it had made all the lists, including Pete Wells’ 100 Best.

I’ve had to really ruminate on how they do it, because there are no fancy flourishes, but there’s no doubt it all starts with Tina who sets the tone. The couple refer to the restaurant as their home and when she greets you at the door, it almost feels like you’re joining a private party, that we would soon be mingling with the other guests. In fact, since Tina whispered in my ear that the longtime Tribeca chef Marc Murphy (Marc179, fka Landmarc) was sitting in the corner, I did just that. (I asked him if he was overly critical when he ate out and he said it’s just the opposite — he’s always thrilled when someone else is cooking.)

So there’s a definite vibe in the place, but it’s hard to put a finger on why it works — why it feels celebratory without being rowdy. The decor is simple and subtle. There are oil paintings on the floor, leaning against the wall; small vignettes in the corners; lighting from sconces; wine stacked in what looked like bookcases; plenty of room between tables. The music is low, and since there is no bar, the chatter is consistent but not thunderous. But it is certainly not a hushed kind of place — it’s fun, even if they take their work very seriously.

The waiters — plural, I think we had the attention of three servers over the night — allowed us to settle in for a while. They didn’t even bring the (hand-written, in Tina’s flowery script — it occurred to me my kids could not read it if they tried) menus for a half hour. There is no rushing about — from anyone. The idea is to take a little time off from our regular technology-infused lives (the menu even reads, “Please, cell phones on a holiday) and just enjoy.

So to the food: There are special treats throughout the meal, starting with a special savory tart: strips of prosciutto over an egg, gruyere, caramelized onion all on a puff pastry, possibly the best BEC you’ve ever had. (Pete Wells called Chip’s approach to cooking “molded regional American flavors over a frame of French technique”). From there for the fixed price, there are three choices for a first and for an entree.

The amuse in between courses — a broth of tomato, shrimp, saffron and the chef’s mother’s fish sauce — is reduced for hours, making it somehow incredibly rich and also good for you. What I wish I ordered and will go back for: duck three ways. What I did order, and still licked the puree off the plate: the most tender scallops with crispy shallots. There were only two scallops and I could not have eaten another bite.

We ordered every dessert on the menu: they are $20 each and can come with a wine pairing. That last bit of alcohol pushed me over the edge, but do order the coconut cake: Chip has a 30-year love affair with this recipe, and has served it at every restaurant the couple has owned. Oh, and also get the pot de creme. (Chip gives away some of his secrets on the couple’s website, including this recipe for shortbread cookies.)

So to the cost, it is fixed price, but I would say it’s about as good a use of $120 when it comes to fine dining that you will get in this town. The desserts ($18) are extra as is the cheese course ($26). The wine pairing is $96 per guest (we drank by the glass).

By now you have heard that Eulalie only takes reservations by phone. You will either catch Tina there, or she will call you back and you will find a date together. She marks it down in the book et voila. No text reminders (I am at the brink with those — the last reservation I made sent me FIVE), no down payment. Funny how these things can just work.

And if you’ve been meaning to go, now’s the time. Tina’s message on the machine notes that summer in Tribeca means folks have escaped the city and there’s more flexibility with the schedule. (This past spring, we had to wait a few weeks for a spot.)

NB summer does not mean — at least at Eulalie — flipflops. “We do appreciate swanky dress at Eulalie,” Tina voice instructs, gently, “a little more Madmen and a little less Grubhub.” And there you have it. Vibe.

Eulalie
239 West Broadway at White
646-476-2380
Tuesday to Saturday, 5:45p