HŪSO, the restaurant from Top Chef Buddha Lo, which has taken the Roc space on Duane and Greenwich, opens this Friday. I have to say, this is an excellent addition to the neighborhood — even if I never eat there. The space is beautiful, but better yet, they have completely transformed the cellar with a sparkling open kitchen and a tasting room and wine cellar under the sidewalk in the vault, restoring the vaulted ceilings and steel decorative columns. Plus the lights are on at this most prominent — and classic — Tribeca corner.

And I think you can tell from my pictures how relaxed and welcoming the staff was. Yes, there were tweezers but absolutely no pretention. That kind of thing starts at the top. And that is Buddha Lo and his wife, Rebekah Pedler, above — both Australian, they met while in culinary school at the age of 19 and 22. (They welcomed twins last year and now live in Fidi.)

As of now, the restaurant will be open Wednesday to Sunday, 5 to 9p, offering its 12-course Signature Menu for $265, with wine pairings ranging from $200 to $450 (there’s a NA option for $110). Of course, since the restaurant is inside Marky’s Caviar, there is also a caviar service, starting at $295. I am hoping over time they maybe open for lunch? And activate the loading dock — one of the best in the neighborhood — with something casual.

Last night Lo was serving beef tartare in tiny delicate pastry shells topped with truffles — I could eat that all day. And the smoked vanilla ice cream was remarkable. I am not a caviar aficionado (or even much of a fan), but my pal thought the service — either a bump or on a tiny little flavorful cracker — was a treat.

So… I can’t think of a single restaurant that has expanded into the vault. (Anyone?) They have lit the ceilings with subtle strips of up-lighting and white washed everything, including the steel columns. The furnishings and built-ins are light oak and white marble, with touches of gold and navy velvet. The art is special; we were especially taken with the two little Haring prints given a featured spot in the main dining room.

The kitchen downstairs is the entire length of the space, and big enough to allow for a gathering — I imagine the folks in the private dining room will be able to watch the show.

This is Lo’s first restaurant of his own (he was last executive chef at Marky’s on the UES before moving downtown) — his lineage here in New York runs through Eleven Madison Park, but it stretches back much further than that, to his father’s Chinese restaurant in Port Douglas, Australia. He was the Top Chef winner in 2022 and 2023 — the first to win twice in a row.

More soon when the dust settles, but in the meantime, they are hiring.

HŪSO
323A Greenwich at Duane
(Located within Marky’s Caviar)
646-386-7620
huso@husony.com
Wednesday – Sunday, 5 to 9p