It was a real treat to get to be part of the trial run last night at Wok In Duane — the latest venture from the folks at Zutto. We are lucky that Jason and Yvonne Metz decided to expand their Tribeca portfolio; the restaurant will be a real asset to the neighborhood and makes the most of the sliver of a space on Duane Park.

The restaurant opens today at 5p for dinner; lunch service will start tomorrow at noon.

Phone ate first, so everything we ordered is documented here. But trust me that everything tasted better than the Pixel could capture. I would go back tomorrow for the shrimp salad, dressed in a light vinegar and ginger dressing and heavy on mint and basil. My pals could not get enough of the black pepper beef — in a sweet brown sauce but accompanied by pepper-encrusted baby potatoes and roasted cherry tomatoes. Truly there were no clunkers; the prawns were exceptional, huge and served with peppers and onion; as was the emperor’s special fried rice, with slices of sausage and shrimp layered on top of cucumbers and topped with sliced scrambled eggs. Appetizers are around $15; entrees around $30 — max of $36.

The liquor license is a couple weeks out, so definitely order the virgin mojito and the lavender and coconut cocktail. In fact, all the cocktails were special — maybe don’t skip the hot honey and grapefruit? They are also serving Tom Holland’s new NA beer.

This spot was formerly Max, before they moved to West Broadway about six years ago, and most recently Argo, which closed in January. It has a narrow entrance, leaving room only for a cozy three-top in the window. It expands to the back with an excellent table for eight and then some on the mezzanine. And they have made the most of the loading dock, with cheery orange tables and chairs for summer.

More TK.

Wok In Duane
181 Duane | Greenwich & Staple
Dinner: 5p on
Lunch: noon to 3
212-207-0066