Where to start on Huso, the remarkable restaurant from Top Chef Buddha Lo that took the former Roc / L’Angolo space on the corner of Duane and Greenwich last year? There *is* an elephant in the room, which is why I have taken so long to write this even though we went for dinner months ago. This is by far — by far — the most I have ever spent on a meal and it kind of scarred me. I have no regrets — we had a wonderful time and it was absolutely a unique, inventive, delicious meal — an experience, really — from a talented chef and an invested staff. I was still able to pay the mortgage that month. We enjoyed every bite. But still.

So to get it out of the way, here’s the rundown. The nine-course tasting menu is $285 per person. The caviar supplement (we did one) is $250. The wine pairing (we split one, since it is a LOT of wine) is $225. (Sign of the times: there is a non-alcoholic pairing.) Then tip on the total. I won’t do the math.

Lo is the only chef to have won Top Chef twice — and Huso [NB: it is no longer all caps] had a Michelin star within months of opening. And he’s a local — he and his young family live in Fidi. And he’s a lovely guy — friendly and unassuming. I caught him outside in December stringing garland along the loading bay railing. His first Huso was a tiny 12-seat speakeasy behind Marky’s Caviar opened in 2019 on the Upper East Side. There was no gas — just a single induction burner and a small oven — so he was forced to get creative.

For Tribeca, Marky’s is still in the foyer of the restaurant and the dining room — spacious and airy, but with no views since the windows all have sheer curtains — seats about 25 (there is an eight-seat private room in the cellar). The atmosphere is a bit hushed for my taste, even with Lenny Kravitz playing in the background. We went early, though, and by 8 there was more of a buzz.

Yes, there are tweezers at work here. But there’s also a lot of fun: breakfast for dinner (virgin egg with caviar and guanciale ham), pigs in a blanket (wagyu tartare in a crispy shell), leaves made out of pumpkin for a fall-inspired dish.

The tasting menu seems to go forever: 12 courses! And even though the portions are tiny, we were full by number eight. (The last two were dessert.) The foie gras and mushroom-shaped parker roll was a fave, along with the lobster tail. But the menu is constantly changing for the season and for fun.

A shoutout to the staff — it’s hard work cooking and serving those dishes. They are relaxed and friendly in what is not a low-key atmosphere — the stakes are high!

Be sure to ask to visit the kitchen before you go. Lo managed to create a spectacular space out of the basement of 323 Greenwich. Shining white with original columns, the private dining room has a front-row seat to the inner workings.

Huso
323A Greenwich at Duane
212-931-4876
huso@husony.com
Wednesday to Sunday, 5 to 8:30p