On one hand, it’s hard not to get excited about a restaurant that takes pizza seriously. On the other hand, Adoro Lei has made choices that might leave you feeling like you’re not part of the target demographic. The room is nightclubesque: black walls, black ceiling, black tables, and black banquettes, with a few touches rustic (wide-plank floors, antique-y chairs) and industrial (metal grates and stools). Paintings by Dessie Jackson depict young women, sometimes smooching. (Adoro Lei means “I love her” in Italian.) During weekday lunch, it’s a mellow scene; weekend brunch is another matter, with DJs and very loud music. Weekday nights remain an open question. The pizza is Neapolitan and promising.

 

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