77 Fulton St.
(at Gold)
More casual than fancy

Italian-born Roberto Caporuscio learned how to make pizza in Naples, Italy, and then emigrated to the U.S., where he opened restaurants in Pittsburgh, New Jersey, and eventually New York City. The first Kesté is on Bleecker; the second is in Williamsburg; and now there’s one in Southbridge Towers, just off of Fulton Street. (It’s called Kesté Wall Street, in a stretch.) The new location, which Caporuscio is opening with his pizzaiola daughter, Giorgia, includes a school where they teach people how to make Neapolitan-style pizza. It’s done in a sort of generic Italian restaurant style, with faux historical touches and unavoidable TVs promoting specific menu items and the Kesté brand in general. There are a couple of nice booths for larger groups by the southern windows. The pizza is excellent, but note that substitutions and additions are not allowed “to preserve the authenticity & efficiency of our process.”