Macao Trading Co. looks as it if were designed by set decorators adapting a novel by W. Somerset Maugham—open the door covered with a rusted metal grate and you’ll find yourself transported to a fever dream of the time when the Portuguese colony was more of a mysterious backwater than the Vegas of the Far East. Beyond the harp-shaped bar is a dimly lit dining room; downstairs is a lounge with another bar and tables with cushions as seats. Ceiling fans spin drowsily; retro exotica covers the walls. The atmosphere is seductive, although the place’s popularity with groups of young people makes it seem like it’s more about hooking up than Old Hollywood-style romance. The food is pan-Asian with a Portuguese influence. The Kaffir Jimlet cocktail is a standout. Note: open very late.

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