Macao Trading Co.
311 Church St.
(bet. Lispenard and Walker)
American (New), Asian, Bar
More casual than fancy

Macao Trading Co. looks as it if were designed by set decorators adapting a novel by W. Somerset Maugham—open the door covered with a rusted metal grate and you’ll find yourself transported to a fever dream of the time when the Portuguese colony was more of a mysterious backwater than the Vegas of the Far East. Beyond the harp-shaped bar is a dimly lit dining room; downstairs is a lounge with another bar and tables with cushions as seats. Ceiling fans spin drowsily; retro exotica covers the walls. The atmosphere is seductive, although the place’s popularity with groups of young people makes it seem like it’s more about hooking up than Old Hollywood-style romance. The food is pan-Asian with a Portuguese influence. The Kaffir Jimlet cocktail is a standout. Note: open very late.

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