Tetsu New
78 Leonard St.
(bet. Church and Broadway)
More fancy than casual

Chef Masa Takayama has said he wants Tetsu to be homier and more casual than his extremely expensive sushi restaurant, Masa. Perhaps it is, but Tetsu is the opposite of cozy: It feels at first like a nightclub, with the lack of a sign (as of yet), the loud music, a 36-foot-long bar, double-high ceilings, and a metal catwalk lounge running the length of the room. Diners are seated at that bar, a few high four-top tables under the catwalk, and four six-to-eight-tops in the rear. (Parties of two who don’t enjoy sharing a table with strangers might be happier at the bar.) Dishes are organized by cooking method, or lack thereof: raw, salads, “sizzling,” robata grill, fried, and so on. The small plates are designed for sharing, but while the food can be delicious, many portions are so small that if you want more than a bite or two, you have to place a double order. And while prices don’t look high, the bill adds up quickly. Note: The lower level is a kaiseki restaurant, called Basement, where dinner starts at $380 per person, not including beverages or tip.