This was a real treat, and if you have a spare evening, I would get on the bookings list at Lei, a newcomer to Doyers Street that seems to fit right in.

Pro tip: if you can, get the catbird seat in the window — it’s just for two. Second choice: the seats outside in the same spot. You will see our window-mates below.

I am, a bit sadly, the last to know about this gem. I caught wind of it when they received the Best New Restaurant nod from the James Beard Foundation in June. The Times called it the meeting of old and new Chinatown in a huge story in January. Eater called it the “ideal snacky wine dinner” last November.

The owner, Annie Shi, is a partner in King, on King Street in Soho; Jupiter, at 30 Rock; and Dean’s, on Sixth and King; all three are adored. The Times said that Lei is the Chinese name of her older sister, who died in 2004, when Shi was 14. She grew up in Queens, but her parents are both immigrants — her father is from Shanghai and her mother northeastern China. “Growing up in Rego Park, Queens,” The Times wrote, “Ms. Shi made pilgrimages to Manhattan’s Chinatown to shop for groceries and had her first facial on Doyers Street, at the spa above Nom Wah.”

Lei is just 28 seats and they call themselves a wine bar, but while the plates are small, there menu is special and completely worthy of a full meal. Wine does get the first mention: they offer what they call a broad array of wine from classic producers as well as up-and-coming winemakers. The menu is rooted in regional Chinese home-cooking — but the food is a long way from the restaurant’s neighbor, Nom Wah.

We split the celtuce ($16) — a fibrous stem of lettuce doused in a vinegar broth — and the baby corn, asparagus and fiddleheads wrapped in a rice dumpling ($25). Perfect for a summer night. Both were rich and complex, but simply prepared — not precious. I’m going back for the steamed shrimp and vermicelli.

The wines range from $15 to $25 by the glass. There’s a couple beers on the menu as well.

Just another great reason for a summer stroll over to Chinatown. And more soon on other Doyers hotspots.

Lei NYC
15-17 Doyers Street | Pell & Bowery
Reserve on Resy
Seven days, 5p to 11p