I have to get this off my chest first: my hackles went up when I walked into Bondi Sushi on Greenwich and saw the sign in the photo above. I feel it is my obligation — as well as my pleasure and honor — to recognize the great sushi we have in Tribeca: Zutto, Takahachi (and Takahachi Bakery), Sushi Azabu, Sushi of Gari, Shigure, Tataki, the recently opened Icca and of course, Shion 69 Leonard Street and Jr. Sushi — at the two ends of the spectrum. Finally a shout-out to Billy Liu from Tokyo Bay, who is now in Chinatown.

There.

So onto Bondi Sushi. The local chain just opened on Greenwich — a reader noted that they were temporarily installed around the corner on Murray in the same space as Juice Press — taking over the former Bliss Bowl space. This is their fourth location since they launched in 2017, and it may be their smallest — there are just five barstools against the wall for eating in. The owners, Justin Hauser and David Hess, also have an upscale upscale omakase restaurant, Noda, on Fifth and 20th.

This is definitely an upgrade from Whole Foods sushi, if you are in the habit of that order as I am, primarily because it’s not sitting in a cold case drying out all day and is make fresh on the spot. The salmon avocado rolls we ordered for lunch were huge — I couldn’t eat them in one bite — with a generous piece of fish and some high grade sushi rice. Their other signature dish is rice bowls, and while I did not love the seasonings in the Macro Bowl, I did love the ingredients: edamame, sweet potato, tofu, kale and crispy shallots. I ate it over two days and it stayed fresh.

Bondi is not cheap — the rolls are $12 and the rice bowl, at $18, was the least expensive one on the menu. (You can also custom make your own from several lists of ingredients for about $24.) So this takes the fast casual to a new price point. But if you can get by on one roll for lunch, you are in the typical Tribeca lunch price range.

The packaging is gorgeous — maybe that justifies the costs? — and I really appreciate the fact that there was no plastic in my order. A clamshell for every roll at Whole Foods has been getting me down. I think it is all recyclable, provided it’s not too dirty. (Only uncoated paper can go in the city’s compost bins, so thinking along those lines is just wishful.)

Also I must give credit to the cashier when I was there: he was efficient, funny, cheerful and clearly a pro — especially compared to the three people I met this week who told me it was their second day on the job. What a difference it makes to encounter someone like that. I had forgotten that it makes a purchase feel so much better when there’s a pleasant human interchange to go with your order.

Bondi Sushi
275 Greenwich | Warren & Murray
Monday to Sunday, 11a to 10p

 

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