Gran Morsi (Italian for “bites”) has the same layout and the same number of seats (around 80) as its predecessor, Brick, but it feels much more stylish. And the food is more ambitious. Chef Kenneth Johnson is cooking Italian with a twist, such as in the Parmagiana section on the menu; there’s one starring duck and taleggio, and one with lobster fra diavolo and squid-ink linguine (as well as one with chicken and mozzarella). Gran Morsi has no TVs above the bar (which is staffed by a genial group), and it offers neither delivery nor takeout. Lunch is likely at some point, while brunch is being debated. Note: The wine list was designed by New York Vintners across the street.

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