Gitano
76 Varick St.
(at Canal)
grupogitano.com
Mexican
More fancy than casual

At the seasonal New York spinoff of the popular restaurant/nightclub Gitano in Tulum, Mexico, you can easily forget that you’re wedged between Sixth Avenue, Varick, and Canal, one of the least pleasant locations downtown. As the drinks flow and the music picks up, the party shifts into gear. Dancing isn’t allowed, but people shimmy, and a few even smoke. Women are dressed to impress, as are some men; others busted out their finest athleisure. It’s not just that a little bit of Tulum has made its way to this area—a bit of the Meatpacking District has, too. And that’s meant in the kindest way possible, even if the illusion stalls halfway: The wooden floors and copious vegetation are nice, but beyond the lone disco ball and a scattering of throw pillows, the decor is surprisingly minimal. Most of the food is forgettable at best, so think of the place as a bar and you’ll be happy.

 

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