The Odeon is a large, lofty Tribeca institution; yummy mummies have taken the place of Brat Pack authors, but the Odeon still stays open till 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday. The menu sticks closely to the classics—steak frites, roast chicken, French onion soup, frisée-and-lardon salad—but if the food is unadventurous, it’s not lazy, either. (Plus: great fries.) It’s very popular for brunch, and in summer, the handful of tables along West Broadway are among the primest real estate in the neighborhood.

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