The 11,000-square-foot Tamarind is huge, with a mezzanine level hovering inside a room that was big to begin with. The space is quite handsome in a money-was-spent way. The culinary ambitions are grand, too: Instead of focusing on one region or falling back on Indian classics, the menu hopscotches across the country. The service errs on the side of formality, with servers doling out washcloths before the meal and spooning entrées onto diners’ dishes. The restaurant is often full, and the consensus is that it’s better than the original in the Flatrion District (since closed).