Back story: Schnippers is a fast-food chain founded by Andrew and Jon Schnipper, who also started Hale & Hearty Soups (but they no longer own it). The new location on Church Street is their fifth Schnippers restaurant.

The atmosphere: I didn’t expect much from the mid-block location, which hasn’t been home to anything in at least nine years; I figured would be akin to a cave. And yet the split-level space is welcoming. You order at street level, then descend to the dining room, which is classed up with contemporary wainscoting and enlivened with hipster bric-a-brac.

Menu: My friend Jim and I often meet at the Schnippers in Times Square, because his job allows for only a short lunch break and he has the palate of a picky five year-old. We always order the same thing: veggie burger for me, a customized bacon-and-cheese sandwich for him, fries, and shakes.

Gold star: This Schnippers is nicer than the one on Eighth Avenue—not just the room, but the experience. It’s the first outpost to use real glasses and ceramic plates, with condiments on every table instead of only up at the counter. The folks working there were pleasant and capable—they actually got Jim’s sandwich right—and I do like how they bring you your meal instead of making you stand around hoping to be called.

Room for improvement: If there’s a downside to real tableware, it’s that it raises expectations regarding the food, which is reliably what it is. Then again, what’s a fast-food chain without consistency?

Contact: Schnippers is at 120 Church (between Murray and Park Place), 212-732-1700; schnippers.com/120-church.

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