The restaurant is a mix of rusticity (it’s paneled with wood reclaimed from partner Chris Blumlo’s family home in Massachusetts) and ambition (an appetizer might come with Sechuan buttons to be eaten first, in order to prepare the palate). It’s also surprisingly lively, with a demo that skews a bit younger than you see at Tribeca restaurants with entrées around $30. The New American food is bold and generally rich, as you might expect from a young chef clearly having a ball. The industry has caught on: In 2010, Marc Forgione (the man) won the Food Network’s “The Next Iron Chef” and Marc Forgione (the restaurant) received two stars from the New York Times. Note: Weekends can get crowded with patrons who seem to have crossed a river to get there.