Cowgirl Sea-Horse
259 Front St.
(at Dover)
American (Traditional), Mexican

A sister to longtime West Village restaurant Cowgirl (née Cowgirl Hall of Fame), Cowgirl Sea-Horse is a supercasual neighborhood joint filled with American kitsch: Drinks come in jars, flea-market finds are everywhere, and condiments sit in metal buckets right on the tables. The zaniness is applied a bit thick—in December, they’ll invite you to celebrate “White (Trash) Christmas”—but there’s an underlying sense of style that roots the place; if Martha Stewart and Todd Oldham had a child, this would be his favorite restaurant. The American/Mexican food doesn’t try to be sophisticated in any way, shape, or form; you can probably get ranch dressing with everything. Portions are large.