The front half of Maman, in the former Maslow 6 space (but with the glass wall removed), is along the lines of the original café on Centre Street. You’ll find pastries, coffee, sandwiches, quiche, salads, and soup in an impeccably art-directed space. It’s entirely possible that nowhere in the south of France looks quite as perfectly Provençal as Mamans in New York City do.

In the back half, owners Elisa Marshall and Benjamin Sormonte, who live in Tribeca, are breaking the mold: The Salle à Manger, or dining room, is a waiter-service restaurant offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner. (In the evenings, the front half turns into a sort of tapas bar.) Moreover, there are cocktails, with special options for mid-day (including the “Spritz is Dead”) and brunch (“The Kale Is Always Greener in Your Neighbor’s Cocktail”).

Maman is at 211 W. Broadway (between White and Franklin); mamannyc.com.

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